Jonny Schwass' Grandmother's Jam Recipe

3:08 pm on 24 December 2010

This is my grandmother's recipe, and every year she waited patiently for the price of apricots to come down. To sterilise the jars, wash them thoroughly in warm soapy water, rinse and heat in a moderate oven for 5 minutes.


Makes 1.35-1.8 kg
900 g fresh apricots
900 g  granulated sugar
juice 1 large lemon
about 25 g butter
You will also need three to four 0.5 litre preserving jars, sterilised as described above.


Begin this the night before you actually want to make the jam. Take a large casserole or small preserving pan and grease the base with a smear of the butter to prevent the preserve sticking. Halve the apricots (reserving the stones) and place them in layers in the pan, sprinkling the sugar in between the layers. Add the lemon juice, then cover with a clean cloth and leave them overnight - this pre-soaking in sugar firms up the fruit and this will ensure that the apricot pieces stay intact when you come to make the jam. At the same time crack approximately half the apricot stones with a nutcracker and remove the kernels. Now blanch them in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, then drain and dry them and slip off their skins. Reserve the kernels to add to the preserve later.
To make the preserve, first put three small plates into the freezer (this is for testing the set), then place the pan over a medium heat and let the sugar melt and completely dissolve - about 15 minutes. The sugar must be absolutely clear and free of granules, otherwise the preserve will be sugary. When the sugar has dissolved turn up the heat to its very highest and let the mixture boil very rapidly for about 10-20 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking.
After that use the cold plates to test for a set. Remove the pan from the heat and place a teaspoonful of the preserve on one of the plates. Allow it to cool for a few seconds, then push it with your finger: if a crinkly skin has formed on the jam, then it has set. If it hasn't set, boil it again for another 5 minutes and do another test. When you have a set, remove the preserve from the heat and stir in a trace of butter, which will disperse any scum that has formed. Then add the reserved kernels and let it settle for 15 minutes before pouring it into the warmed sterilised jars. Seal while still warm and label the jars when cold.

From Jesse Mulligan, 1–4pm

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