Minimalist to pin-up, beatnik to cosplay, retro to punk, emo to equestrian, grunge and geek chic to Kawaii…Fashion is a form of expression and clothing has long been a reflection of societal norms and attitudes.
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Jason Lingard creates garments that are inclusive of age, size and gender Photo: Supplied
Today, LGBT culture breaks down gender boundaries; human rights in the garment industry along with environmental concerns have impacted on the way we shop, and increasingly, how designers produce their garments. And the rise of the internet and advancements in technology enable the growth of global trends and creation of new and innovative textiles.
More so, now than ever, getting dressed is about making conscious decisions about what feels right for the individual and celebrating difference. On the modern runway a male model in a dress might prompt a second look, but it's nothing scandalous. Kiwi designer Jason Lingard, is emblematic of this trend.
Dancers placed on the runway make a statement at NZFW 2017. Photo: Sonia Sly
This year, he presented his collection ‘Chaos’ as an improvised dance at New Zealand Fashion Week. It was a bold move for a designer who had never shown at the event before, but Lingard says he felt the need to ‘shake things up a bit.’ Using dancers to perform in his drapey garments, rather than sending stick-thin models up and down the catwalk seemed like an obvious choice.
“I want to [feel] like I’m affecting people in some way [and] that’s what I live for and what I design for. I don’t want someone saying, ‘that dress is really pretty,” he says.
Lingard’s work is beautiful, dark and moody and hints at Japanese minimalism.
“That collection was called ‘Chaos’ for a reason [as] I didn’t do any drawing or planning and just draped on the dress form,” he says.
A dancer strikes a pose as part of Jason Lingard's NZFW 2017 presentation. Photo: Sonia Sly
Lingard is influenced by dystopian and utopian science fiction and a love of Japanese culture. He also spent time living in Korea, which adds another dimension to his work.
But it’s his personal experience of being an outsider which is key to the Jason Lingard brand. It’s prompted him to take a stand in ensuring his garments are inclusive - not limited by age, size or gender.
Lingard grew up as a gay man in a farming village in the 90s. An experience he describes as “ pretty rough.”
Designer Jason Lingard Photo: Sonia Sly
“I was a goth as well and people would yell at [me] on the street, and I would get punched at parties.”
Lingard laughs at that memory now, regardless of how painful it must have been at the time. He says his experience as an outsider has it’s benefits today.
“I think if I had had a really easy upbringing, maybe my label would be a lot more boring.”
Since the inception of his brand almost three years ago, Lingard has used ethnically diverse models. In his most recent lookbook he cast a plus-size model and also styled a male model in his dresses.
The designer says his clothes are about versatility and anyone from a 16-year-old girl to a 60-year-old woman, no matter their body shape can wear his clothes and feel confident.
Lingard is one of the game changers in the industry. He’s building a steady following and his overall vision for the brand and his focus on inclusivity is timely and effortless.
“I really hate all those societal norms, so if clothing can break that down and make a statement then I think that’s pretty cool.”
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