Nau Mai Town - Episode 7: Whakatane

From Nau Mai Town, 5:00 am on 27 April 2023

A drive-thru hāngī with creamed paua and raw fish was probably the best lunch I’ve ever had on the job… I even took some home for my husband.

The delicious meal was courtesy of a family fundraiser in Whakatāne, and the great kai was just a bonus.

My real reason for visiting the Bay of Plenty town was an appointment with a naked young woman standing on a rock.

Kai signage at Whakatane

Photo: Justine Murray

The Lady on the Rock - a bronze statue atop Turuturu Rock - is the main clue to the true story behind the name Whakatāne.

It was here that 600 to 800 years ago, the famous Mātaatua waka first arrived from Hawaiki, led by its captain-navigator Toroa.

After the waka landed, some men got out to survey the land and the canoe began drifting out to sea, says DOC cultural advisor Joe Harawira.

Fearing the worst, and defying the tapu of women handling waka, Toroa's young daughter Wairaka cried  ‘Kia Whakatāne au I ahau’ (Let me act like a man) and hauled the canoe back to shore.

The Lady on the Rock - a sculpture in Whakatāne

The Lady on the Rock - a sculpture in Whakatāne Photo: Public domain

This is the story according to the local Ngāti Awa iwi, but the neighbouring iwi Te Whakatohea believe it was most likely Toroa’s sister Muriwai who hauled the waka back to shore, most she was older.

Both versions of the story are now acknowledged, Harawira says.

So is it Wairaka or Muriwai depicted in the Lady on the Rock? And why is the statue dedicated to the wife of former Whakatāne mayor William Sullivan (1891-1967)?

Mark Sykes at Whakatane heads and the statue of Wairaka on Turuturu rock.

Mark Sykes Photo: Justine Murray

Joe Harawira

Joe Harawira  Photo: Justine Murray